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	<title>Northeastern Homes &#187; Featured</title>
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		<title>Green Building Advisor Article: Pro/Con: Is Vinyl Green?</title>
		<link>http://northeasternhomes.com/2010/01/green-building-advisor-article-procon-is-vinyl-green/</link>
		<comments>http://northeasternhomes.com/2010/01/green-building-advisor-article-procon-is-vinyl-green/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:19:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jerrald Hayes</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Websites of Interest]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://northeasternhomes.com/?p=429</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Thanks to Green Building Advisor editor Daniel Morrison we have two articles with contrasting opinions highlighted in the blogs over on the Green Building Advisor website: Pro/Con: Is Vinyl Green?






Yes, Vinyl Is Green
   ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Thanks to Green Building Advisor editor Daniel Morrison we have two articles with contrasting opinions highlighted in the blogs over on the Green Building Advisor website: <a href="http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-blog/procon-vinyl-green" target="_blank"><strong>Pro/Con: Is Vinyl Green?</strong></a></p>
<blockquote>
<p><a href="http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-blog/procon-vinyl-green-0" target="_blank"><strong><img src="/Article_media/MiscIllustrations/Pro_Con_Vinyl2.jpg" width="276" height="276" border="0" usemap="#Map" class="float-right" /></p>
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<p>Yes, Vinyl Is Green</strong></a><br />
        By Patrick Moore<br />
        Expensive green products will remain niche products with little chance to have a positive effect on the environment. Vinyl is affordable and versatile. <a href="http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-blog/procon-vinyl-green-0" target="_blank">Read more&#8230;</a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><a href="http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-blog/procon-vinyl-lethal" target="_blank"><strong>No, Vinyl Is Lethal</strong></a><br />
        By Bill Walsh<br />
        The environmental, health, and social equity effects of vinyl over its life cycle make it the worst plastic for the environment and the antithesis of a green building material. <a href="http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/green-building-blog/procon-vinyl-lethal" target="_blank">Read more&#8230;</a></p>
</blockquote>
<p>Personally I have an aesthetic bias against vinyl. Even when it looks good you touch it or tap it with the back of your hand and it sounds like it&#8217;s plastic and that has always bothered me. Getting beyond that bias I still find myself agreeing more with Bill Walsh and his Vinyl is Lethal arguments but I do find the Patrick Moores arguments worthwhile listening to and considering. </p>
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		<title>Interior Koi Pond &amp; Tropical Environment</title>
		<link>http://northeasternhomes.com/2010/01/interior-koi-pond-tropical-environment/</link>
		<comments>http://northeasternhomes.com/2010/01/interior-koi-pond-tropical-environment/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jan 2010 18:20:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jerrald Hayes</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Interior Projects]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://northeasternhomes.com/?p=391</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[One of my own personal specialties has always been designing and building what call ‘Theatrical Spaces &#38; Environments’. I was trained as a theatrical set and lighting designer and have always pulled employees and subcontractors ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_22.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_22.jpg" width="268" height="180"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" class="float-right" /></a>One of my own personal specialties has always been designing and building what call ‘Theatrical Spaces &amp; Environments’. I was trained as a theatrical set and lighting designer and have always pulled employees and subcontractors from my contacts there and the exhibit building trade.</p>
<p>All the way back in 1996 we got a call for an interesting project that called on not only my company&#8217;s skills as framing carpenters but also those years of artistic experience we had building and painting scenery for the theatre, trade shows, and exhibits. We had a homeowner out in Hewlett Harbor, L.I that wanted a Koi Pond &amp; Tropical Environment designed and built inside the space above a garage addition he was having put on his home!</p>
<p>Click on the images below to view as a slide show of the projects development </p>
<p> <a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_01.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_01.jpg" width="268" height="184"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_02.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_02.jpg" width="268" height="183"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_03.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_03.jpg" width="268" height="180"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_04.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_04.jpg" width="268" height="183"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_05.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_05.jpg" width="268" height="188"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_06.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_06.jpg" width="268" height="177"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_07.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_07.jpg" width="268" height="184"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_08.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_08.jpg" width="268" height="189"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_09.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_09.jpg" width="268" height="177"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_10.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_10.jpg" width="268" height="177"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_11.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_11.jpg" width="268" height="188"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_12.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_12.jpg" width="268" height="179"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_13.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_13.jpg" width="268" height="188"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_14.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_14.jpg" width="268" height="176"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_15.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_15.jpg" width="268" height="182"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_16.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_16.jpg" width="268" height="176"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_17.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_17.jpg" width="268" height="185"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_18.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_18.jpg" width="268" height="176"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_19.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_19.jpg" width="268" height="176"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_21.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_21.jpg" width="268" height="188"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_22.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_22.jpg" width="268" height="180"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a><a href="/Article_media/KoiPond1/HewlettKoi_24.jpg" rel="lightbox[391]"><img src="/Article_media/KoiPond1/thm_HewlettKoi_24.jpg" width="180" height="268"  border="0"  rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p>Notes on the Construction Techniques:</p>
<ul>
<li>Koi Pond: fiberglass reinforced epoxy in a sheathing application over a wiggle plywood form.</li>
<li>Rock Walls and Waterfall: fiberglass reinforced plasters; Structo-lite &amp; Hydrocal, over metal lathe and styrofoam forms.</li>
<li>Stream Bed &amp; Waterfall: fiberglass reinforced epoxy.</li>
<li>Synthetic Rock Surface Texturing: patching plaster and auto body putty.</li>
<li>Faux Painting of Synthetic Rock Surface: done in modified sponging, airbrush and glazing techniques. </li>
<li>Flagstone Floor: It&#8217;s the real thing &quot;1&quot; Pennsylvania  Irregular flagging that we got from Bedford Stone &amp; Masonry Supply Corp. in a medium bed thin-set application.</li>
</ul>
<p>To look at more pictures of the  <a href="http://paradigmprojects.com/index.php/unique-projects/interior-koi-pond-hewlett-harbor-li/" target="_blank"><strong>Interior Koi Pond &amp; Tropical Environment</strong></a> project and other interesting  projects Paradigm Project has done over the years you can click to visit the <a href="http://paradigmprojects.com/" target="_blank"><strong>ParadigmProjects.com</strong></a> website.</p>
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		<title>The Design-Build Process</title>
		<link>http://northeasternhomes.com/2010/01/the-design-build-process/</link>
		<comments>http://northeasternhomes.com/2010/01/the-design-build-process/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 19 Jan 2010 17:24:57 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jerrald Hayes</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Working With Professionals]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://northeasternhomes.com/?p=397</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Design/Build &#8211; What does it mean?&#8230; an Overview
While in recent years the term has seemingly swept the country, You may wonder, is it just a marketing slogan,&#8230; a buzz word,&#8230; a hot button,&#8230; or does ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<h3><a name="DBWhatDoesITMean" id="DBWhatDoesITMean"></a>Design/Build &#8211; What does it mean?&#8230; an Overview</h3>
<p><img src="/Article_media/MiscIllustrations/iStock_000008158491XSmall.jpg" width="300" height="219" class="float-right" />While in recent years the term has seemingly swept the country, You may wonder, is it just a marketing slogan,&#8230; a buzz word,&#8230; a hot button,&#8230; or does it really mean something? The concept is really the reincarnation of a way that things used to be done. For the better part of history builders were often designers and vice versa and it was only around the turn of the century that found themselves splitting apart.</p>
<p>Design/Build today gives you the client <strong>a seamless cost effective functional product from one accountable source</strong>. It&#8217;s a process that fits the time and lifestyles of today&#8217;s busy families providing a happier solution than the more conventional &quot; get at least three bids&quot; approach we hear so much about .</p>
<p><span id="more-397"></span></p>
<div class="articleNav">
<ul>
<li><a href="#DBWhatDoesITMean">Design/Build &#8211; What does it mean?&#8230; An Overview</a></li>
<li><a href="#DefineingTheDBProcess">Defining the Design/Build process or paradigm *</a></li>
<li><a href="#WhyNotJustGet3FreeBids">Why Not Just Get 3 Free Bids?</a></li>
<li><a href="#TheTypicalDesignBuildProcess">The Design/Build Process</a></li>
<li><a href="#TheAdvantagesofDesignBuild">The Advantages of Design/Build</a></li>
<li><a href="#WhatDesignBuildIsNot">What Design Build Is Not</a></li>
<li><a href="#TheOtherProcessesofContractWorkWeWillExamineHere">The Other Alternative Processes of Contract Work:</a></li>
</ul></div>
<p>	Over the years as I&#8217;ve learned more and more about the building and remodeling trades I always sort of wondered about the process where an architect or designer designs a project and then puts it out to bid with let&#8217;s say three or more contractors for a client. To me that always seemed the equivalent of shooting an arrow and then drawing the target around where it hit. Many times the project would then come in way over the clients budget and it would have to go back to be redesigned and then put out to bid again thereby adding extra time and money to the design phase and further delaying the construction of the project.</p>
<p>To put it in a nutshell Design/Build puts the design phase and the estimating &amp; planning phases of a project together. Since both processes take place concurrently the design and pre-construction planning timeline is shortened. But this only the beginning of the advantages to design build. With the design team working together with the production team the design team get feedback on the cost and time requirements their design efforts will require and the production team having greater time to familiarize themselves with the projects design can offer ideas and suggestions for materials and techniques that can save the client time and money in the construction phase thereby delivering more bang for the buck on the project. through the cracks.</p>
<p align="right"><a name="DefineingTheDBProcess" id="DefineingTheDBProcess"></a><a href="#DBWhatDoesITMean">back to the top</a></p>
<h3>Defining the Design/Build process or paradigm*<br />
      (paradigm 2. an example; pattern, method —;Syn.2. model, mold, ideal, standard)</h3>
<p>Instead of projects budget being the result or afterthought of the project&#8217;s design with the design/build process <strong>your design is derived as a result of your budget </strong>. A single contractor works as a team with an architect or designer during the design phase in order to accomplish cost efficiency and function while the design is being developed.</p>
<p>A full set of plans, elevations, and other drawings necessary to visualize the design along with an estimate, specifications, a projected schedule, and a detailed warranty are provided to the client before a final contractual commitment to build the project takes place. <strong>This gives the client a more accurate and complete picture of what the project entails well before the project starts.</strong></p>
<p>The design/build process allows the contractor as project manager to do as much preplanning as possible before the job, so that when things are ready to proceed they done in a more efficient and orderly manner. <strong>This enables greater cost efficiencies by more closely integrating production procedures with the project&#8217;s intended design.</strong></p>
<p>From concept to completion, you are working with one firm which manages the entire process. This eliminates blame shifting, where everyone claims it&#8217;s someone else&#8217;s fault, leaving the customer falling through the cracks.</p>
<p align="right"><a name="WhyNotJustGet3FreeBids" id="WhyNotJustGet3FreeBids"></a><a href="#DBWhatDoesITMean">back to the top</a></p>
<h3>Why Not Just Get 3 Free Bids?</h3>
<p>We were probably all taught to get 3 estimates and we&#8217;ve grown very accustomed to seeing contractors offer free estimates as a way of marketing their company. Over the years we&#8217;ve assumed that this was the way to get the best possible price for our project and keep the contractor honest. While there are cases in which this method has worked well for the client-consumer there countless cases where it has backfired in reality. Why?</p>
<p><strong>Lack of Detail</strong> &#8211; Since the contractor faces the risk of not being chosen for the job, it is difficult to spend the proper time needed to work on anything but the price. He tends to be hasty and skimpy on the details of paperwork, because he can&#8217;t afford to do work he doesn&#8217;t get paid for. Unfortunately, you need to know exactly what he is going to do for this price in order to compare it with other bids, and be confident that the work done will be for the price quoted.</p>
<p><strong>Inaccurate Estimate </strong>- The contractor bids low in order to obtain the job, figuring he can make it up in change orders throughout the job because of the vagueness of his contract. Since the contractor doesn&#8217;t get paid for his time, not a great deal of effort will be put into researching prices thoroughly, often basing them on what the client can pay. Usually he will not guarantee compensation for missed deadlines, nor guarantee the price. This is not fair to you, the client, especially if your budget is limited.</p>
<p><strong>Many Conflicts</strong> &#8211; When nothing is stated in detail, either on paper or in plans, both client and contractor have their own version of the project. This is the beginning of many arguments, mistrust and frustration.</p>
<p><strong>Most Jobs Take Longer Than Planned</strong> &#8211; The reason should be obvious. Until the contractor gets paid, he won&#8217;t do much. A well-managed project must have a lot of preparation before construction begins, or else delays may occur. Coordination problems, special orders not arriving on time, scheduling problems with subcontractors, legal requirements, selections not made, materials not shipped, and other problems all cause the job to take at least 50% longer than Design/Build. This results in the nightmare of having your house torn apart!</p>
<p align="right"><a name="TheTypicalDesignBuildProcess" id="TheTypicalDesignBuildProcess"></a><a href="#DBWhatDoesITMean">back to the top</a></p>
<h3>The Typical Design/Build Process</h3>
<p><strong>The Initial Consultation</strong> &#8211; A representative of the company or design/build team you&#8217;re considering will usally come to your home and listen to your ideas, needs and design concepts, discuss general prices, define a budget, and explain the Design/Build process they work with.</p>
<p><strong>Preliminary Designs</strong> &#8211; Upon signing a contract for preliminary designs, a designer or draftman will take measurements and photos of your property, prepare fundamental sketches, and give a more detailed cost outline of the project. Once the client has decided on a perspective for the project a contract for Design/Build is signed, and sketches are usally given to the client.</p>
<p><strong>The Design/Build Agreement</strong> &#8211; During this phase a full set of plans is drawn which includes a site plan, side elevations, foundation plan, floor plan, framing layout, roof lines, a door schedule, window schedule, an appliance and fixture schedule, a room finish schedule, and specifications. In addition, a comprehensive onstruction contract proposal with terms and conditions for the scope and cost of work is provided. Any engineering reports or city requirements are pursued at this time and upon signing a construction contract, the client receives the plans.</p>
<p><strong>The Construction Contract </strong>- Anything that has been discussed between the designer or design team and the client must be written, or else it will not be considered part of the agreement between client and contractor. Any additions or changes that the client wishes to have done at this point are generally approcached and executed through written change orders to the contract.</p>
<p><strong>Project Preparation</strong> &#8211; Generally after a construction contract is signed, the contractor will need four to twelve weeks to prepare the project properly depending upon the projects size and scope.Product selections made consulting with the client and the design/build team prepares material lists, subcontract agreements, schedule charts, job folders, special orders (so that they can be stocked before construction starts), job cost budgets, material purchase shopping, utilities are ordered, and personnel is scheduled.</p>
<p><strong>Pre-Construction Conference</strong> &#8211; Typically before work commences, the client, project manager, and lead carpenter meet to discuss and further clarify the scope of the project and make any final adjustments necessary that are of concern. The actual construction work should begin soon after this.</p>
<p><strong>Construction Start</strong> &#8211; Now that everything has been properly prepared while outside your home, the work can be done in an expeditions manner.</p>
<p align="right"><a name="TheAdvantagesofDesignBuild" id="TheAdvantagesofDesignBuild"></a><a href="#DBWhatDoesITMean">back to the top</a></p>
<h3>The Advantages of Design/Build</h3>
<p><strong>You Can Save Money</strong>- I&#8217;d like to stress the word can because when design/build is properly executed and the design and project managment teams are working together in the design process, cost efficient means of construction can be designed into the project from the beginning. It&#8217;s amazing how you find was to do things on a budget when you have to. The security of the client&#8217;s commitment to the project in the early stages helps the contractor to reciprocate with reduced costs. Since the contractor has intimate knowledge of cost effective construction techniques and materials design concepts can be developed from the beginning that reflect a realistic understanding of construction costs and the budget guidelines established by the client. Additionally contractor as a design/builder has more time to gather the best prices from vendors, as opposed to the short time commonly allowed in the competitive bidding process.</p>
<p>Collaborative decision making between the design and construction staff as opposed to the hierarchical approach found in competitive bid, saves time and ensures the most cost-effective, maintenance-free, energy saving building possible. While the design staff focuses on what should be built and how it will look, the construction staff focuses on how it will be built and what it will cost.</p>
<p><strong>It Takes Less Time </strong>- From concept to completed project the design/build approach requires less time than the competitive bid approach. Several events may occur simultaneously, such as design, regulatory approvals, financing, price planning and scheduling. Paradigm having singular control of the schedule and is therefore in a better position to expedite the whole process. Your home is torn up for a shorter period of time, since a good portion of the work is done before construction begins. The direct communications between the client and Paradigm can also prevent delays caused by unanswered questions or slow information transfer. Change orders can be implemented quickly at a minimum cost.</p>
<p><strong>More Cost Efficenent Design-</strong> Since the project being designed is going to be built by workers and trade contractors that are all included as part of the planning process, the plans and specifications need not be as comprehensive as they would ordinarily be in a competitive bid project . The cost of architectural work typically ranges from 2 to 5 percent of the total project cost with Paradigm design/build, as opposed to the 5 to 12 percent architectural firms often charge in competitive bid arrangements.</p>
<p><strong>Better Craftsmanship</strong> &#8211; Since the project manager has a hand in the design, construction materials and methods with which the company and crew are familiar are designed into the project. This means better management and a more efficient use of skills and company expertise. Because the Paradigm staff is so fully in control, we have a strong incentive to make certain that all details-from design through construction are properly addressed.</p>
<p><strong>Reduced Hassles</strong> &#8211; The client&#8217;s administrative role is dramatically reduced, for he or she must no longer facilitate communications between an architect and a contractor. In addition, the design/build approach requires only one set of financial and communication records.Since Paradigm assumes all responsibility for planning, design, pricing, and constructing the project coordination and oversight activities, as well as inter-party communications, are all enhanced.</p>
<p><strong>Passing the Buck Is Elieminated</strong>- By limiting the number of &quot;chiefs,&quot; the client is exposed to less buck-passing than often occurs in competitive bid projects. Questions pertaining to the clarity completeness, or &quot;constructability&quot; of the plans and specifications are eliminated along with the legal exposure posed by multiple parties.</p>
<p><strong>Less Conflict</strong> &#8211; Most contractors strive for excellence. When details aren’t spelled out and addressed in advance, conflict between the contractor and client usually ensues. Since most contractors &quot;wing it,&quot; these decisions are made in a forced context where a contract is already signed. With Design/Build, a commitment to do work takes place after these items are discussed.</p>
<p><strong>A Friendly Relationship With Your Contractor</strong> &#8211; Since there is plenty of time for the contractor to demonstrate character in advance of the actual construction the potential for conflict is reduced, there is a much better opportunity to become friends before work ever commences. You’d rather have a friend working on your house, wouldn’t you?</p>
<p align="right"><a name="WhatDesignBuildIsNot" id="WhatDesignBuildIsNot"></a><a href="#DBWhatDoesITMean">back to the top</a></p>
<h3>What Design-Build Is Not:</h3>
<p>It&#8217;s not a panacea. The success of a design/Build project is predicated upon initial trust in the abilities of the Design/Build team. Any advantages that there might be to the traditional competitive bid are eliminated.</p>
<p align="right"><a name="TheOtherProcessesofContractWorkWeWillExamineHere" id="TheOtherProcessesofContractWorkWeWillExamineHere"></a><a href="#DBWhatDoesITMean">back to the top</a></p>
<h3>The Other Processes of Contract Work We Will Examine Here:</h3>
<p>While Design/Build is for many clients and contractors a preferred method of work there are other formats which depending on the project might be better suited to a particular clients needs.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Negotiated Contracts</strong>: Usually a hybrid or combination of methods whereby the final construction documents and scope of work is modified because of budget restrictions.</li>
<li><strong>Cost / Plus:</strong> A method that has no fixed contract price with the possible exception of a not to exceed ceiling price. This procedure is best used in a situation where there are numerous unknown conditions that can effect the work throughout the construction process.</li>
<li><strong>Competitive Bid:</strong> Occasionally a client may approach us with a complete set of plans already in hand and they have real interest in us performing the work to execute the project. The most popular and well known method of contract work. We will provide limited bid proposals in a pre-qualified situation.
                            </li>
</ul>
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		<title>An Outdoor Cooking Island and BBQ</title>
		<link>http://northeasternhomes.com/2010/01/an-outdoor-cooking-island-and-bbq/</link>
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		<pubDate>Thu, 14 Jan 2010 16:10:33 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Andy Clifford</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Exterior Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Headline]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://northeasternhomes.com/?p=216</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[While from the photo on the right you can see it came out very beautifully in the long run planning ahead wasn&#8217;t part of the agenda with this home owner&#8217;s project. I was brought in ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_grout_3.jpg" rel="lightbox[216]"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_grout_3.jpg" width="300" height="225" border="0" class="float-right" rel="lightbox" /></a>While from the photo on the right you can see it came out very beautifully in the long run planning ahead wasn&#8217;t part of the agenda with this home owner&#8217;s project. I was brought in after the homeowners had had already had a local mason construct the basic BBQ island to figure out just what the owner could do in the way of an attractive interesting counter top. </p>
<p>No slabs of bluestone or soapstone or any of the numerous other suggestions they got from other remodelers went over well until they found me.</p>
<p>Their first requirement was they wanted to roughly match the colors of the new(ish) stone patio and island and no solid surface material would work for them and they didn&#8217;t want a concrete top either. </p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/stone_island.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_stone_island.jpg" alt="bb" width="269" height="201" border="0" class="float-left" title="bb" rel="lightbox" /></a>To fabricate the top here&#8217;s what I started with and how I went about it.</p>
<p>The first thing I needed to do was build a frame of pressure treated lumber inside this island structure flush with the top in order to accept pressure treated plywood.</p>
<p>All my 2&#215;4 framing was fastened to the interior of the frames using my Remington nail gun. I used a long 20&#8242; 2&#215;4 that I bent along the front of the curved wall by wedging straight pieces of 2&#215;4 to the straight part of the wall where I fastened yet another piece.By slowly adding in straight pieces hammered into place with a small sledge hammer I was able to get the front piece bent as needed.</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/PT_top.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_PT_top.jpg?w=300&amp;h=225" alt="bbq_3" width="199" height="148" border="0" class="float-left" title="bbq_3" rel="lightbox" /></a>Next was cutting and fastening two layers of 3/4&#8243;pressure treated plywood in to place. Everything was glued with a polyurethane glue (PL Premium) and screwed with coated deck screws&#8230;.<a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/PT_top_2.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_PT_top_2.jpg?w=300&amp;h=225" alt="bbq w/ply top" width="188" height="139" border="0" class="float-right" title="bbq w/ply top" rel="lightbox" /></a>After the plywood was was secured in place I had to round the front side. I used a thin piece of lumber I cut so I could bend it to the radius the customer was happy with. I then cut it with my jig saw and then sanded it perfectly to my line with my belt sander at which point I was ready to thin-set and screw my cement boards to.</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/membrane_1.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_membrane_1.jpg" alt="manao bbq tile work.1" width="255" height="191" border="0" class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-131" title="manao bbq tile work.1" rel="lightbox" /></a>After my cement boards were set and solid I added my fiberglass tape to all seams, cut the front to the same rounded edge using a carbide blade in my jig saw and painted on a product know as RedGard a membrane that will help prevent water penetration into and beneath the substrate and help keep the tiles from cracking due to freeze thaw cycling.</p>
<p>The tiles my customers selected and ordered were custom handmade tiles made especially for exterior use and they chose a custom made border tiles as well.</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/membrane_2.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_membrane_2.jpg" alt="manao bbq tile work" width="259" height="194" border="0" class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-139" title="manao bbq tile work" rel="lightbox" /></a>This was not going to be an easy tile installation considering this BBQ/kitchen island top was right in the sun and it was the hottest part of the summer with the sun baking down on the tiles making them so hot I could hardly touch them. This is no good for the setting up of the thin-set so I needed to bring some shade to the island. My customers allowed me to use the picnic table umbrella you see in the back ground. I just moved it as I went along. </p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_layout_1.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_layout_1.jpg?w=300&amp;h=225" alt="bbq tile counter top job" width="247" height="185" border="0" class="alignright size-medium wp-image-140" title="bbq tile counter top job" rel="lightbox" /></a>It worked like a charm.</p>
<p>The next step would be laying out my tiles.</p>
<p>This too was quite a feat being they wanted certain tiles to line up in areas that was quite the head scratcher for me but as you&#8217;ll see it came together beautifully.</p>
<p>So next was setting up my wet saw and getting down to business.</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_layout_2.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_layout_2.jpg?w=300&amp;h=225" alt="p1010003" width="274" height="205" border="0" class="float-left" title="p1010003" rel="lightbox" /></a></p>
<p>The plan was to start in the early A.M when the weather was coolest. Now with my tiles laid out I was able to draw my layout lines, remove the tiles and start mixing up my thin-set. One thing I needed to do with these custom made tiles was to lay them out on the ground to work out an aesthetically pleasing and balanced pattern making sure I didn&#8217;t place  too many dark or too many light tiles together. I needed to spread out the different shades&#8230;something I&#8217;m always aware of with custom made tiles.</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_edge_1.jpg" rel="lightbox"><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_edge_2.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_edge_2.jpg?w=150&amp;h=112" alt="bbq tile counter top  sheet metal fabrication phase" width="150" height="112" border="0" class="alignleft size-thumbnail wp-image-157" title="bbq tile counter top  sheet metal fabrication phase" rel="lightbox" /></a><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_edge_1.jpg?w=300&amp;h=225" alt="p1010003_2" width="260" height="195" border="0" class="alignright size-medium wp-image-152" title="p1010003_2" rel="lightbox" />As you can see with the border tiles they were made very inconsistently and I had a hard time deciding which tile to put where so I had the home owner help me make the choices to where they were happy.</p>
<p>In the end  &#8221;I&#8221; wasn&#8217;t happy with the way  they sent those tiles to me but what can you do when you have to wait six weeks for an order to be made&#8230;and at about $50 per edge tile&#8230;&#8230;</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_edge_3.jpg" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_edge_3.jpg?w=300&amp;h=225" alt="bbq tile counter top job border phase" width="300" height="225" border="0" class="alignleft size-medium wp-image-153" title="bbq tile counter top job border phase" rel="lightbox" /></a>And on the left was the best choice of the placement of the border tiles given the shades we were sent.</p>
<p>Over all the project came out absolutely gorgeous!!</p>
<p>The large over hang in the front curved section of the island top had me very concerned so we had 3/4&#8243; steel L-brackets made up. I chiseled away the to pf the stone wall enough to keep the top of the brackets flush with the top of the stone wall and flush to the bottom of the counters bottom. All brackets I bolted deep into the back underside of the stone island. Every part of this project was quite the challenge..</p>
<p>After the top was grouted I used a &#8220;grout bag&#8221; to carefully fill between the edge tiles taking care not to get any of the grout into the intricate pattern of the edging. </p>
<p>After all the grout was cured I came back and gave al<a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/andybuildz/BBQTILETOP#5231802813008467090">l </a> my work several coats of a premium sealer&#8230;and this was the project I left some very nice customers with.</p>
<h3 style="text-align:left;">The Finished Project: </h3>
<p align="center" style="text-align:left;"><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_grout_1.jpg" rel="lightbox[216]"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_grout_1.jpg" width="265" height="201" border="0" rel="lightbox"/></a><em><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_grout_3.jpg" rel="lightbox[216]"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_grout_3.jpg" width="269" height="200" border="0" rel="lightbox"/></a></p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/tile_grout_2.jpg" rel="lightbox[216]"><img src="/Article_media/OutDoorBBQ/thm_tile_grout_2.jpg" width="224" height="300" border="0" rel="lightbox"/></a></p>
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		<title>An Elegant Stair &amp; Balcony Railing Remodel; Scarsdale NY</title>
		<link>http://northeasternhomes.com/2009/12/stair-scarsdale-ny/</link>
		<comments>http://northeasternhomes.com/2009/12/stair-scarsdale-ny/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 18 Dec 2009 00:48:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Jerrald Hayes</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Featured]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Interior Projects]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://northeasternhomes.com/?p=176</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Unlike a lot of contractors I&#8217;m not a big fan of what&#8217;s known in the trades as &#34;bending rail&#34; at all and I prefer to use material that&#8217;s solid or horizontally laminated and then formed ...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p title="Brookfield Railing"><a href="/Article_media/P7310005.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/Featured_P7310005.jpg" alt="Featured Article" width="360" height="270" border="1" align="right" rel= "lightbox"/></a>Unlike a lot of contractors I&#8217;m not a big fan of what&#8217;s known in the trades as &quot;bending rail&quot; at all and I prefer to use material that&#8217;s solid or horizontally laminated and then formed using what is known as the Tangental Railing Technique. It&#8217;s more difficult in that it requires a solid understanding of the complex trigonometry involved but the results are not only more attractive but the installations are also trouble free over time.</p>
<p>Bending rail is a type of commercially available railing that is essentially a standard railing profile that&#8217;s been band-sawn into vertical strips about 3/8&quot; to 1/2&quot; thick which you then apply glue to, bend to the desired curve, clamp, let it set up, <a href="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/BendingRailStripes.jpg" rel="lightbox[176]"><img src="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/BendingRailStripesThm.jpg" width="200" height="153" border="0" class="float-left" rel= "lightbox" /></a>sand and finish. One of the first railing projects I ever did over fifteen years ago was with bending rail and over the course of the next three to five years I kept on having to go back to re-plumb the newel at the base of the staircase. You see the bending rail has a little bit of  &quot;memory&quot; so to speak and was trying to return to it&#8217;s straight rail former self. It is also and perhaps more importantly not very attractive. As you can see in the photo on the left the cherry bending rail on the left doesn&#8217;t look nearly as attractive as the solid horizontalilly laminated mahogany railing on the right. </p>
<p>As a result of these considerations I haven&#8217;t used it since then.</p>
<p>Another one my other complaints with bending rail is it comes in a limited number of profiles and making your own is not as just as simple as bandsaw-bend-glue-sand-install. Certain profiles (and species) don’t lend themselves well at all to that technique. I also feel that in certain wood species it would be a waste of wood &quot;design-wise&quot; too. While bending rail doesn’t look all that bad in straight grained oak I would think in figured cherry bending rail wouldn’t look anything at all like it was cherry.</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/P7310008.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/thm-P7310008.jpg" width="173" height="130" border="1" align="left" rel= "lightbox"/></a>As I mentioned earlier I prefer horizontially laminated ( or as we call them &quot;blanked&quot; up or &quot;stacked&quot;) rail or rail made from solid stock. The photographs above and to the left show project we completed in the spring of 2000. On this project all of the railing was fabricated (cut and shaped) from solid stock. The level S-shaped section in the first section was cut from a 3&quot; thick piece of cherry about 14&quot; wide by about 9′ long and the curves in the second photo were cut from pieces that were maybe 10&quot; or 12&quot; wide by about 14′ long. The very last part of the curve in the second photo where it returns to the wall is short curved piece that I added on otherwise to make that whole section out of one piece we would have had to had a 3&quot; thick piece of cherry about 18&quot; wide by 15 or 16 feet. (You should be able to click on the pictures and thumbnails here and open up a larger photograph in it’s own window.)</p>
<p>The way the whole job went I first templated the whole balcony and gave thetemplates to the iron workers (<a href="http://www.bedfordironworks.com/" target="_blank">Bedford Ironworks, Bedford NY</a>). They then fabricated the iron balustrade sections and installed them. Then working from the templates <a href="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/P7310011.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/thm-P7310011.jpg" width="173" height="130" border="1" align="right" rel= "lightbox" /></a> we then fabricated the bullnosed base pieces that &quot;clam-shelled&quot; around the balustrade on the floor level (photo right). </p>
<p>The carpeting that would be intalled at a later date would run up to and butt with the bullnosed flooring pieces we were installing. While the straight sections of the floor pieces<br />
    weren&#8217;t that difficult getting the two curved floor pieces to mate perfectly with each other while tightly encasing the balusters was actually the toughest part of the project. </p>
<p>As it turned out you could fabricate and fit only about four or five linear feet of the curved &quot;clamshell&quot; flooring sections a day. I origonally figured (estimated) the curved floor sections would be four or five times as difficult as the straight sections. As it turns out they were more like twenty times the difficulty . The sections were biscutted and joined with polyurethane glue together. I found a great new tool in a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004YBX5?tag=paradigmbuilding&amp;camp=0&amp;creative=0&amp;linkCode=as4&amp;creativeASIN=B00004YBX5&amp;adid=0BNQBBWJ30NHQJYSGRQV&amp;" target="_blank">Metabo 3&quot; Random Orbit Sander</a> to clean up the joints along with the trusty old <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005Q7BX?tag=paradigmbuilding&amp;camp=0&amp;creative=0&amp;linkCode=as4&amp;creativeASIN=B00005Q7BX&amp;adid=1A01SE628P8KN464K2CV&amp;" target="_blank">Fien finishing sander</a> too.</p>
<p>To fabricate the railing we actually placed the stock (after surface planning it to thickness) on top of the installed balustrade and scribed/traced both side of the 1&quot; wide strap iron that held the top of the balustrade together. The stock was then flipped and the plough for the strap iron routed out. We then took the pieces out to the garage with had a perfectly level tile floor and set them up on a high set of saw horses. We then scribed the rail pattern using the plough as a guide. The stock was then cut along those lines with a band saw I had mounted on wheels. In other words the bandsaw moved while<br />
    the stock stayed in one place. I tried it the other way at first but the pieces were way too cumbersome to handle and kept binding because they didn&#8217;t move laterally side to side across the saw horses. I could have use ball bearing type rollers I guess but I found this was just as easy to set up at the time and I think after the fact that it&#8217;s the better method in terms of the ease of cutting through such large pieces of wood.</p>
<p>The rough curved railing shape was then &quot;faired&quot; sanding it with<br />
    a belt sander. I found this was real important to do before shaping because any bump or hump in the band saw cut will transfer itself to the shaped cut and it a lot easier to &quot;fair&quot; the surface while it&#8217;s flat than after it has a complex curved shape cut in to it. You can ask the guys who sanded the shapes I did with out that &quot;fairing&quot; step. The profile was shaped using a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000222V3?tag=paradigmbuilding&amp;camp=0&amp;creative=0&amp;linkCode=as4&amp;creativeASIN=B0000222V3&amp;adid=18FFEX691MAFA9ACX4C8&amp;" target="_blank">3-1/4&quot; Porter-Cable Router</a> with a 1&quot; round over on the top and a &quot;railing&quot; bit that I  picked up from Rockler (why they are the only ones who make that shape in a router bit puzzles me)</p>
<p>Before installing the rail back on the balustrade we took 1/4&quot; thick<br />
    cherry stock and clamped it to the strap iron and then using a trimmer bit trimmed it off in place for use as fillets in the ploughs and then installed the railing on the balustrade.</p>
<p><a href="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/P7310015.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/thm-P7310015.jpg" width="130" height="173" border="1" align="left" /></a>The tricky part of the job and what turned away a lot of other stairbuilders was the wreath turn on the stair (photos below). As you can see from the photo below both the bottom section which we referred to as the parapet cap and the rail had to make a 180 degree turn while decending approximately 30&quot; on a very tight radius. I think the railing centerline turned on a 4-1/2 radius. That made the inside radius of the parapet cap wreath&#8217;s turn a 1/2 in radius. <a href="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/P7310016.jpg" target="_blank" rel="lightbox"><img src="/Article_media/ElegantBalconyRailing/thm-P7310016.jpg" width="130" height="173" border="1" align="right" rel= "lightbox"/></a>You<br />
    can see from the second photo there that it almost turns &quot;under itself&quot;.</p>
<p>The way I made the turns was after plotting them out in my head and then checking my thinking a couple of times with drawings in VectorWorks I glued up a blank for the parapet cap wreath stacking a 3&quot; blocks of cherry and then roughed out the rail according to my calculating from one of the 4&quot; plus thick x 12&quot; blocks I had around. You can&#8217;t use 3&quot; since the base plane of the rail distorts itself as it makes the helical turn so you need enough extra stock to accommodate the distortion. (Distortion is actually the wrong word since it&#8217;s geometrically doing what it is supposed to be doing but the word helps explain what&#8217;s happening. The shaping of the railing was pretty much sculpting with a carbide bur chucked in a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WP6HGO?tag=paradigmbuilding&amp;camp=0&amp;creative=0&amp;linkCode=as4&amp;creativeASIN=B000WP6HGO&amp;adid=1MKKC8C8A0XYWGX23CQ6&amp;" target="_blank">Roto Zip tool</a> and then touched up and finished with sanding drums in a dremel and that 3&quot; Metabo I mentioned earlier. </p>
<p>The parapet wreath was roughed with a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000ASDKI?tag=paradigmbuilding&amp;camp=0&amp;creative=0&amp;linkCode=as4&amp;creativeASIN=B0000ASDKI&amp;adid=1SHRVZXZ76T1NP2C6JZ3&amp;" target="_blank">Porter-Cable Tiger Saw</a> and 40 60 and 80 grit sanding disks in on a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00005RHPZ?tag=paradigmbuilding&amp;camp=0&amp;creative=0&amp;linkCode=as4&amp;creativeASIN=B00005RHPZ&amp;adid=1Z0BBP540HWEYE4GXRQ9&amp;" target="_blank">4-1/2&quot; DeWalt Grinder</a> and then finished with the Metabo as well as a <a href="https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000222YJ?tag=paradigmbuilding&amp;camp=0&amp;creative=0&amp;linkCode=as4&amp;creativeASIN=B0000222YJ&amp;adid=04W6JE2MK3Q9TW5AE4PF&amp;" target="_blank">5&quot; Porter Cable Random Orbit Sander.</a></p>
<p>To look at more pictures of the whole project and other interesting stair projects you can click to visit the <a href="http://stairscapes.com/" target="_blank"><strong>Stairscapes.com</strong></a> website. </p>
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